Day 38, House of Sand

Part 1, The Desert, Day 38

House of Sand

Miles: 27.72

PCT Mile: 643.77

I had my biggest mile day today, and I owe it all to the wind. The desert section seems to be saving it's biggest challenges for last. 

Last night was very cold, but pretty. Stars filled the sky, and there was lots of activity. I see things in the sky every night; meteors, shooting stars, satellites, dancing Bobcats, and...other. I keep this to myself usually, so you all don't think I'm some whack-job. I woke up at 4:50 and left by 5:15am. It was a beautiful morning to walk in the desert.

I needed water for the next 30 miles, and I really had to work for it. I took a 3.2 mile path off the PCT down a steep gully that led to a guzzler.

I feel uneasy going off trail, but this water was necessary. I made it there by 7am. There was a trough that collected the water from Willow Spring, but 2 weeks ago a dead raven was found in it and it really fouled up the trough. I had to hop a barbed wire fence and find an underground cistern. 

I forgot to take a pic of the water inside, but it didn't look bad, but was alarmingly low. There was a note from a hiker saying he pulled a dead rat and mouse out 3 days ago... Look, I know how gross this is, its disgusting. But I simply needed it, so I filtered it and put bleach in it. I got 6 liters for the next 2 days. By far, the worst part of this water fetch was the dirt road I walked to get back to the PCT. it was uphill soft sand for 2 miles. 

I was relieved once I made it back to the PCT. I really dislike this water situation because it makes me reluctant to drink the water I have and I end up hoarding it. I can't even imagine how difficult it might be for hikers to cross the desert in 2 weeks when it's 100 degrees and springs are drying up. Though that's usually when the trail angels start stocking caches.

It was a slog all day. Hiking uphill, in sand, with the bullying winds going against me.

I just put my headphones in and bulled through the wind. I was all business today.

Once I got in a groove, nothing could stop me. The wind was so bad that I wanted nothing more than to get past it, so I charged on. This one uphill part was incredibly difficult, as the ground was like quicksand:

I was making great time though. I've been in the desert so long that I'm starting to look different, as you can see in the pic below:

I needed a lunch break so I stopped at this dirt road where I guess there was once a water cache:

It was just trash now, but I did enjoy the chair. I rested my feet for a good hour, and because I was making good miles today, I felt ok taking my time and relaxing. I have noticed that my food is pretty low, and my appetite is big. This might become a problem, but we'll see. Here's my disgusting feet.

The trail climbed 2,500 feet in the next few miles, but it was a gorgeous hike with views of the vast desert and rocky hills. The best part of the afternoon was that I'd entered the Sequoia National Forest! I've always wanted to see this. 

The trail climbed and climbed until I reached a point towering over everything in the vicinity. It was tiring, but fulfilling. 

I checked my phone to look at a map and noticed I had a very weak cell signal. I couldn't call or email, or text, but I could upload my blog for all you lovely people. And it only took 1 hour! I was happy to post my latest blogs, but the wind forced me down the mountain. I'm really, really sick of this wind. 

I descended and was in a forest. 

I love these cutie-pies:

There was a spring 1 mile off trail, but it's what's called a "seep." The water report instructs hikers to dig a hole in the mud and wait for it to fill up... I'd use it if I needed water, but I'd been rationing all day, so I hiked on. The wind was crazy, even in the forest. 

It was getting late and I needed to camp. Here's where my problems began. You may think that hiking the PCT means you are free to walk all day and plop down whenever you're tired. Sadly, that's not the case. I spend hours sometimes, looking for a decent spot to camp. Flat spots are rare, and you must consider wind as well. I came to a dirt road that the trail followed for 4 miles and the wind was ferocious. There were no flat spots, and I had to keep walking for 2 hours. I could barely walk, but the wind would have destroyed my tent had I set up here.

I settled on a lumpy spot by the road with some shelter from the wind.

I made mashed potatoes with cheese, summer sausage, and bacon bits. 😍 I'm finally starting to learn, people.

I've barely seen anyone out here, and I know I rave about solo hiking, but it's really lonely, and I miss some of the others I've been hiking around. I'm also getting a bit nervous about the Sierra Nevada snow and if I'll be there too early. The rumor mill is churning about the snow, and many hikers are waiting. I'd like to take some zeros at Kennedy Meadows and wait for some people, as well as for the snow to melt a bit. The weather has been so cold and windy too, and it adds to the solitude and isolation out here. I must be hiking in a big bubble. I may even hitch to Onyx tomorrow and get more food. This last section is tough, but I'd like to enter the Sierra by June 1st. I don't really know what to do here, but I'll figure something out.