Day 9, Meet me in Idyllwild

Part 1, The Desert, Day 9

Meet me in Idyllwild

Miles: 5

PCT Mile: 179

This morning was miserable. I woke up at 5am to the sound of rain on my tent and quickly started to pack up my gear. It was sprinkling now, but I didn't want to stick around for the downpour. I went outside and found my tent drenched, but managed to stuff the muddy mess into my pack anyways, getting myself muddy in the process. I quickly started down the trail, not even in my rain gear, just wanting to get out of this spot. It was cold, windy, and rainy.

As I mumbled obscenities while maintaining a brisk pace, I had to decide my plan for the day. In 5 miles, I'd be at highway 74, where the PCT is closed for 20 miles due to the Mountain Fire 2 years ago. The options were to hitch 18 miles to Idyllwild, my  next resupply point, walk the 18 miles on the road, or take a shady detour that was a patchwork of old dirt roads and hunting trails that was unfinished, and for which I had no map. I had planned for the road walk, but those plans would change. When I got to the highway, it was a complete white-out, but I did find a beacon of hope.

The Paradise Valley Cafe, one mile West? Yes please. I was starving, as it happens when I reach my resupply points, and I turned West into the thick fog and rain. I couldn't see 5 feet in front of me, and I can't imagine driving on that highway, but cars flew by, appearing only seconds after I saw the lights through the fog.

After walking the mile and being completely soaked and shivering, the sign appeared like a mirage in the desert. 

I wandered up looking like a drowned rat to find a small gang of equally disheveled PCT hikers waiting for the 8am opening. I looked at the time; 8:01 am. It was destiny. The doors opened and we all sheltered in. I drank a few cups of coffee to warm up, and the waitresses, who love hikers apparently, were so great. They were real throwbacks, calling everyone "hun," etc. It was a great respite from the weather. I ordered this badboy:

The food was great, but I immediately felt nauseous after eating it, probably because I'd been eating meager, disgusting trail food for awhile. In any case, I hung out awhile to avoid the rain, and asked all the other hikers what there plan was to get to Idyllwild. Everyone was hitch-hiking. The 18 mile and two highways walk was, apparently, very dangerous. There is no shoulder, and cars speed by and in this low visibility rain and fog,it would be unwise. I thought of my throbbing feet, my drenched and muddy gear, my wet clothes, and the weather that was forecast for the next 2 days, and decided to hitch to Idyllwild. It was an easy choice considering the circumstances, and one I did not make lightly. It was the only choice. I put on all my rain gear, and my rain cover and headed for the highway.

After about 20 minutes of no cars stopping, I assumed they simply couldn't see me in time due to the fog, and I was right. A massive truck flew by and came back a few minutes later. A man named Caleb, who said he didn't see me the first time, picked me up. He asked if I was a PCT Hiker, because there isn't much difference in appearance between Thru hikers and vagrants, but locals like to help hikers. Caleb dropped me off 10 miles down the highway.

I started hitching again, something I'm not too good at, or fond of, but after 15 minutes, a women named Melinda picked me up. I sat in back next to her kids, who were on the way to school. They asked a bunch of questions about the trail and were very nice people. 20 minutes later, I was in Idyllwild. 

I wandered to a bakery called the Town Baker to charge my phone at an outlet and escape the rain. The bakery is owned and operated by former PCT Thru Hikers and I was welcomed with a discount and they said I could camp out back if I wanted. It was a great welcome to Idyllwild.

I signed their hiker register and bought a cinnamon roll because of all the hype it had in the register. Things shouldn't be allowed to taste this good...

I thanked them and set about town to wander. It is a beautiful mountain town and very hiker friendly. I wandered to a few Inns, but quickly found no vacancies or too high prices, so I did what I've been doing and paid 3 bucks to camp at San Jacinto State Park, which even has showers! 

I went to the outfitters and bought a new fuel canister for my stove.

It was around 3pm and I was so tired and needed to rest my feet, so I set up my soaking filthy tent and climbed inside and half-passed out for an hour while it rained outside. 

I had not showered since I started hiking so I went to the coin operated showers and was thrilled that the water was semi-warm. Good thing I brought soap. The shower was amazing, though I had to air dry in the freezing cold.

This is a very charming town, and tomorrow I have many errands to run before I hike again. I may go to the Lumber Mill because they word is they have a real awkward karaoke night on Fridays, but I need to sleep too. 

After the last 150 mile stretch, it feels incredible to regroup. Though I'm very anxious to get back on the trail.