Day 47, Canyon Kings

Part 2, The Sierra Nevada, Day 47

Canyon Kings

Miles: 15.5

PCT Mile: 766.3

I'm sure people reading this who've been through the Sierra Nevada were waiting for me to get to this point. I've never been here, never researched the area or seen many pictures. I didn't really know what to expect. My mind was blown today. It was the first day that I felt like I was actually in the Sierra Nevada, and everything about it is a big deal.

I woke up at 5am shivering. It was as cold as I can remember experiencing. I told myself that outside was off limits, even though I had to pee really bad. Going in my sleeping bag unfortunately wasn't an option. I waited in agony for the sun to rise and quickly darted out then back in. The question this cold raised is, can my gear keep me warm? I'm not so sure right now. I was doing sit ups to keep warm. Nothing I can do now but try and get this right before Washington. I made coffee from my sleeping bag, then packed up late and left after filtering water from the lake. 

It was 8am when I left. I have a guilty feeling about leaving this late, but hiking the Sierra section is all about taking your time, and I'm doing that.

There was a flow of hikers leaving the lake all at the same time, and we sort of hiked together for awhile. I turned a corner and saw this fine view:

As I was taking pics, I looked around and 5 other hikers were all standing there holding their cameras. We all laughed, cause we looked like a bunch of filthy tourists. I'm seeing more hikers here than in the desert, and for good reason. 

I was very excited to see this sign:

This is the first National Park the PCT crosses, and though I don't know what exactly this park holds, I do know that it's special. A very fun moment. 

And wouldn't you know it, the views started to stack up. A kind of magnificence had been building up for awhile and today it was starting to explode in spectacular fashion. It was a pleasure to be present here. 

I stopped after 6 miles to relax. There's a lot of relaxing to be done here. I did not use my trekking poles today and the difference was huge. I was hiking faster and less encumbered, free to use my hands to take pics, etc. I'll hold onto the poles for the steep passes and send them home after the Sierra. 

I'd be dead on this hike if it weren't for these bad boys:

After sitting in the sun for about 40 minutes, I moved on. My destination was only 15 miles from where I camped, so the hiking was leisurely and just beautiful.

Another great development is that my feet are not aching that bad. I  hadn't even noticed them today, which is good. I'm cautiously optimistic, though my back and shoulders have become the new issue. 

It's hard to relate how satisfying this environment is after 41 days in the SoCal desert. Being here feels like a reward. It helps that the weather is great. 

I turned here and heard water running. This was exciting stuff. What I saw was like a mirage. 

Rock Creek ran right through this meadow. I explored a bit and found this waterfall.

It was like paradise. 

I set up my lunch assault by the creek and stayed for an hour and a half just soaking up the sun.

The water tastes better than any water on the trail yet. I soaked my feet, and it was a pretty special time. The sound of running water is something I've missed. I left at 2pm and started to climb.

The water report I've been using since my hike started ended at Rock Creek. A good moment for sure, but I was a bit nervous about not being able to plan for water. My worries were quelled instantly. There was a spring every quarter mile or so.

Good, clean springs. 

The hike up was the steepest I'd seen so far, but not too long. 

Hiking alone through the Sierra Nevada can feel incredibly lonely at times. It was very quiet here, and the magnitude of the the surrounding mountains made me feel small and vulnerable. The beauty has a way of demanding respect, and rightly so. 

I'm constantly on the lookout for Mt. Whitney, but the mountain proves to be elusive. I wish I knew more about these distant peaks. They made me anxious for some reason.

I crossed a small pass and descended into this epic canyon. 

I felt that I was on the cusp of somewhere special, and my feeling was correct. I walked into Crabtree Meadow and dropped my pack in the dirt while I just stared. 

What a place! A creek winding aimlessly through a vast meadow, deer, even marmots. I tried to get another pic like I promised, but these things waddle into their holes at an astonishing rate. 

Consider the quest to get a good marmot pic ongoing. They are adorable, and all of them look like my cat Bill, which makes me a bit homesick.

Other hikers were camped here, and lots of gear was piled near the bear box from hikers probably doing the Mt. Whitney hike. I sat by the creek and watched the deer until 5pm.

I had planned to camp closer to Whitney, but how could I leave this special place? I stealth camped away from the other campers. I have a great view of the Meadow and the deer, plus the creek is running right behind me. 

I made mashed potatoes with cheese and summer sausage, pretty much a go-to lately. I'm actually getting excited for my meals, but some of that might be because the more I eat, the less my pack weighs. I've come a long way from oatmeal in a bag. I still starve throughout the day. Hiker hunger is very real. There just aren't enough calories to be had. 

I have no idea what the Mt. Whitney trail holds for me tomorrow, but I'm gonna give the 18 mile side trip my best shot. I'm excited, even nervous. There is snow on the hills here, so I imagine there will be lots more above 14,000 feet. I've never been that high before, not counting a plane, of course. I'm currently bundled up, not nearly enough, watching the sun fade from the meadow. After Whitney, I need to figure out how to tackle Forrester  Pass and then a difficult resupply, but for now, I'm simply enjoying the moment.